영문목차
List of Illustrations=vii
Acknowledgements=xi
1. Introduction
PART 1. RISE OF THE CHINESE FASHION INDUSTRY
2. The Growth of Chinese Textile and Apparel Industries : Is It Just an Illustration of Modernization?=17
3. What Do Changing Chinese Fashions Really Tell Us?=41
PART 2. CREATING FASHION IN CHINA
4. Designing a National Style : The Tangzhuang Phenomenon=69
5. For the Sake of Art or for the Market? The Cultural Economy of Fashion Design=83
6. Creating Fashion on the Runway, Chinese Style=108
7. Making Clothes for International Markets : A Clothing Perspective on Globalization=132
8. Conclusion : Clothing, Modernization, and Globalization=133
Notes=161
Bibliography=173
Index=183
2.1. Annual apparel output in China=23
2.2. Chinese apparel export=31
2.3. Shares of Chinese apparel export in the world=31
3.1. A small discount store at Xujiahui=42
3.2. A family portrait in late Qing=46
3.3. Mao's Zhongshanzhuang, reproduced in 1998"=50
3.4. Commemorating the thirty-year anniversary of Hongdou=51
3.5. A master tailor making a Western suit for a top Chinese government official=54
3.6. Sample design of Zuczug=57
3.7. Wu Haiyan's Dongfang siguo fashion show=57
4.1. 2001 APEC Summit in Shanghai=70
4.2. A customer gazing at a tangzhuang shop in Shanghai=79
5.1. A wedding gown designed by a student of Ye Li=93
5.2. A showroom of a man's line similar to Yuan Xing's=98
5.3. Bourdieu's (1993) conceptualization of the fields of art and economy=101
5.4. Phillips and Steiner's (1999) conceptualization of art, commodity, and artifact=102
5.5. An alternative conceptualization of the field of fashion=103
6.1. An early fashion show in Shanghai=110
6.2. Backdrop of Mark Cheung 2005 Haute Couture Fashion Show=120
6.3. Invitation to Mark Cheung's fashion show=120
6.4. A sketch of day wear by Mark Cheung=121
6.5. A sketch of evening wear by Mark Cheung=122
6.6. Mark Cheung 2005 Haute Couture fashion show=123
6.7. Mark Cheung 2005 Haute Couture fashion show=124
6.8. Mark Cheung 2005 Haute Couture fashion show=125
7.1. An international trade office in Shanghai=137
7.2. A garment factory in suburban Shanghai=152