To improve the properties of natural dyeing of Hanji, extraction conditions of natural dyes from sappan wood, gardenia, and gallnut, dyeing properties(surface absorption rates, color, and sunlight fastness) of non mordant, pre mordant by Al, Cu, and Fe, and combination dyeing by gallnut were measured and compared with the results of hanji, cotton, and silk.
The appropriate extraction conditions of dye materials from the point of K/S values of sappan wood, gardenia, and gallnut were 20g/L(input amount of dye materials), 90℃ (extraction temperature), and 30 minutes(extration time). Silk showed highest K/S values.
The color of sappon wood, gardenia, and gallnut developed after non mordant were the series of YR, Y, and Y or YR, respectively.
Pre mordant showed that the optimum concentration of mordant material such as Al, Cu, Fe were 3%(o.w.f.), and silk showed the highest K/S values of dyed fabrics compared to cotton and hanji.
Pre mordant of Al, Cu, and Fe showed that the developed color of sappan wood, gardenia, were the series of R and RP, and Y, respectively. Gallnut showed the various series of R, YR, and RP.
The composition mordant such as gallnut-Al, Cu, Fe-sappan wood, and gardenia revealed that the optimum concentration of gallnut were 3%, and silk had the highest K/S values, followed by cotton and hanji. Al showed highest K/S values, compared to Cu and Fe.
The developed colors of Gallnut-mordant material-sappan wood were the series of R, YR, and RP, and the series of Y and YR were developed after gallnut-mordant material-gardenia.
The sunlight fastness of un mordant sappan wood, gardenia, and gallnut were not improved by pre mordant.
The combination dyeing mordant using Gallnut-Al, Cu, Fe-sappan wood, gardenia revealed that the concentration of gallnut had little effect of sunlight fastness. The sunlight fastness were not significantly improved by combination dyeing.