표제지
목차
논문요약 12
제1장 서론 14
1. 연구목적 14
2. 연구배경 17
제2장 실험 21
1. 실험 재료 21
1) 원사 22
2) 직물조직도 24
3) 경,위사 밀도 26
2. 제직 준비 공정 28
1) 경사준비 28
2) 제직공정 28
3. 염색공정 30
1) 정련 및 표백(Scouring and Bleaching) 30
2) 머서화 및 염색공정(Mercerization and Dyeing) 30
3) 건조 (Drying) 31
4. 직물의 물리적 성질 및 태 분석 32
1) 물리적 성질 측정 32
2) 역학적 특성 및 태 분석 34
5. 데이터 분석 35
제3장 결과 및 고찰 36
1. 직물의 물리적 성질 36
1) 직물의 경·위사 밀도 36
2) 직물의 폭 39
3) 직물의 면밀도 (단위면적 당 무게) 42
4) 직물의 두께 46
5) 직축률 49
6) Cover Factor 53
7) 직물의 가공 후 수축률 60
2. 직물의 역학적 성질 및 태 64
1) 직물의 신장률 64
2) 직물의 신장회복률 66
3) 직물의 강신도 68
4) 직물의 감각평가치 및 태평가치 76
제4장 결론 84
참고문헌 86
부록 89
〈부록 1〉스트레치 면직물의 생지와 가공지 기본물성 변화 90
〈부록 2〉 스트레치 면직물 가공지의 밀도와 Cover Factor 91
〈부록 3〉 스트레치 면직물의 물리적 특성 92
〈부록 4〉 Hand value and Total hand value 변화 93
〈부록 5〉 스트레치 면직물의 역학특성치 94
〈부록 6〉 스트레치 면직물의 물리적 특성치간의 상관관계 95
ABSTRACT 97
Table 1. Specification of the purchased one-way stretch woven fabrics 22
Table 2. Critical weaving specification of three kinds of weave 22
Table 3. Characteristics of the warp and weft yarns 24
Table 4. Weaving specification of the warp yarns 26
Table 5. Weaving specification of the weft yarns 27
Table 6. Sectional warping & sizing specification 28
Table 7. Operating conditions of the weaving machine 29
Table 8. Preprocessing, dyeing, & drying conditions 31
Table 9. A comparison of mean densities between three kinds of weave in the grey and finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of warp density upon weft density 39
Table 10. A comparison of mean width between three kinds of weave in the grey and finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of width upon weft density 42
Table 11. A comparison of mean area density between three kinds of weave in the grey and finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of area density upon weft density 46
Table 12. A comparison of mean thickness between three kinds of weave in the finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of thickness upon weft density 49
Table 13. A comparison of mean shrinkage between three kinds of weave in the finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of shrinkage upon warp density or weft density 52
Table 14. A comparison of mean cover factor between three kinds of weave in the grey fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of cover factor upon weft density 58
Table 15. A comparison of mean cover factor between three kinds of weave in the finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of cover factor upon weft density 59
Table 16. A comparison of mean contraction by laundering between three kinds of weave in the finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of contraction upon weft density 63
Table 17. A comparison of mean extension between three kinds of weave in the finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of extension upon weft density 66
Table 18. A comparison of mean recovery between three kinds of weave in the finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of recovery upon weft density 68
Table 19. A comparison of mean strength between three kinds of weave in the finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of strength and strain upon weft density 75
Table 20. A comparison of mean strain between three kinds of weave in the finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of strain upon weft density 76
Table 21. A comparison of mean hand values between three kinds of weave in the finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of primary hand value upon weft density 82
Table 22. A comparison of mean total hand value between three kinds of weave in the finished fabrics with different weft densities, and the regression of total hand value upon weft density 83
Fig. 1. Cross-sectional(a) and longitudinal(b) photo-micrographs of the weft yarn 23
Fig. 2. Schematics of plain weave(a), twill weave(b), and satin weave(c) 25
Fig. 3. Warp density variation with different weft densities of the grey fabrics 37
Fig. 4. Warp density variation with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 38
Fig. 5. Width variation with different weft densities of the grey and finished fabrics, Circle, Grey fabric; Square, Finished fabric; Blue, plain; Red, twill; Green, satin 41
Fig. 6. Area density variation with different weft densities of the grey fabrics 44
Fig. 7. Area density variation with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 45
Fig. 8. Thickness variation with different weft density of the finished fabrics 48
Fig. 9. Shrinkage rate variation in the warp direction with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 50
Fig. 10. Shrinkage rate variation in the weft direction with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 51
Fig. 11. Warp cover factor variation with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 55
Fig. 12. Weft cover factor variation with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 56
Fig. 13. Fabric cover factor variation with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 57
Fig. 14. Residual contraction rate variation of warp direction due to laundering with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 61
Fig. 15. Residual contraction rate variation of weft direction due to laundering with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 62
Fig. 16. Extension rate variation in the weft direction with different weft density of the finished fabrics 65
Fig. 17. Recovery rate variation in the weft direction with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 67
Fig. 18. Strength variation in the warp direction with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 70
Fig. 19. Strain variation in the warp direction with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 71
Fig. 20. Strength variation in the weft direction with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 73
Fig. 21. Strain variation in the weft direction with different weft densities of the finished fabrics 74
Fig. 22. Hand value variations with different weft densities of the finished fabrics, (a) plain weave, (b) twill weave, and (c)satin weave 80
Fig. 23. Total hand value variation with different weft densities of the finished fabrics, Blue, plain; Red, twill; Green, satin 81