표제지
목차
Ⅰ. 발간사 8
Ⅱ. 유물개요 14
도판 15
세종대학교 소장 왕실 복식 유물의 소장 경위 / 황보경 43
세종대학교 소장 국가민속문화재 지정현황과 유물이력 / 안보연 47
1. 문화재 지정 현황과 가치 48
2. 보존처리 대상유물의 이력 49
3. 동궁비 원삼 등 복식 보존처리 개요 54
Ⅲ. 보존처리 및 조사 56
세종대학교 소장 동궁비 원삼 등 복식유물의 과학적 보존 / 안보연;이량미 57
국문초록 58
1. 보존처리 개요 59
2. 처리 전 조사 59
3. 세척 및 형태 보정 68
4. 보강 및 복원보수 72
5. 마무리 78
6. 고찰 및 결론 79
ABSTRACT 88
세종대학교 소장 왕실 예복에 사용된 금사의 과학적 분석 / 이장존 89
국문초록 90
1. 서론 91
2. 연구 대상 및 방법 92
3. 분석 결과 93
4. 결론 107
ABSTRACT 109
Ⅳ. 논고 112
원삼(圓衫)에 표현된 금(金)장식 문양의 형성 배경 / 홍나영;강서영 113
국문초록 114
1. 서론 115
2. 시대적 배경 116
3. 문양의 유래 119
4. 예복용 직물의 새로운 견양 128
5. 결론 133
ABSTRACT 135
Ⅴ. 부록 138
브루클린박물관 소장 원삼, 당의, 활옷의 보존상태 조사 보고 / 안보연;이량미 139
1. 조사개요 140
2. 한국복식유물 소장 현황 141
3. 조사 결과 141
4. 맺음말 160
판권기 167
세종대학교 소장 국가민속문화재 지정현황과 유물이력 / 안보연 48
Table 1. 세종대학교 소장 국가민속문화재 목록 48
세종대학교 소장 동궁비 원삼 등 복식유물의 과학적 보존 / 안보연;이량미 80
Table 1. Before and after images of conservation treatment 80
Table 2. Chromaticity and textile measurement results of Donggungbi-Wonsam 81
Table 3. Chromaticity and textile measurement results of Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 82
Table 4. Chromaticity and textile measurement results of Cheongsaek-Sukgosa-Jangot 83
Table 5. Chromaticity and textile measurement results of Gwanghwadang-Wonsam 84
Table 6. Chromaticity and textile measurement results of Tohwangsaek-Myeongju-Jeogori 85
Table 7. Chromaticity and textile measurement results of Jeon-Wangbi-Dangui 86
세종대학교 소장 왕실 예복에 사용된 금사의 과학적 분석 / 이장존 92
Table 1. Py-GC/MS analysis conditions 92
Table 2. XRF analysis results of the Yi Danha's wife-Wonsam 97
Table 3. Micro XRF analysis results of the Yi Danha's wife-Wonsam 98
Table 4. XRF analysis results of the Donggungbi-Wonsam 100
Table 5. Micro XRF analysis results of flat silver thread in the Donggungbi-Wonsam 101
Table 6. Micro XRF analysis results of flat gold thread in the Donggungbi-Wonsam 102
Table 7. XRF analysis results of the Gwanghwadang-Wonsam 104
Table 8. XRF analysis results of the Jeon-Wangbi-Dangui 106
원삼(圓衫)에 표현된 금(金)장식 문양의 형성 배경 / 홍나영;강서영 121
Table 1. List of Dansam in the annals of Joseon Dynasty 121
브루클린박물관 소장 원삼, 당의, 활옷의 보존상태 조사 보고 / 안보연;이량미 140
Table 1. List of Korean costume investigation 140
세종대학교 소장 왕실 복식 유물의 소장 경위 / 황보경 44
Fig. 1. 이조시대 의상 발표회 모습(1962년) 44
Fig. 2. 일본 동경에서의 의상 발표회 모습(1964년) 45
Fig. 3. 이조시대 의상발표회 도록 표지(1964년) 45
Fig. 4. 국립고궁박물관의 왕실 복식 적의 국제학술심포지엄 개최(2011년) 46
Fig. 5. 『SEJONG MUSEUM COLLECTION』 발간(2014년) 46
세종대학교 소장 국가민속문화재 지정현황과 유물이력 / 안보연 50
Fig. 1. 1964년 《이조시대 의상발표회》 도록에 실린 동궁비 원삼과 전 왕비 당의 착용 모습 50
Fig. 2. 《이조시대 의상발표회》 도록에 실린 발표 개요 50
Fig. 3. 1978년 10월에 작성된 '지정조사보고서'의 표지 및 동궁비 원삼 도식화 51
Fig. 4. 1980년대 '중요민속자료 지정현황'에 실린 전시 상태의 유물 모습 52
Fig. 5. 1986년 『문화재대관』의 동궁비 원삼 사진 52
Fig. 6. 1988년 서울올림픽 당시 『한국의 미』 전시도록에 실린 동궁비 원삼 52
Fig. 7. 2006년 『문화재대관』에 실린 고화질의 동궁비 원삼과 직금 문양 세부 사진 53
세종대학교 소장 동궁비 원삼 등 복식유물의 과학적 보존 / 안보연;이량미 60
Fig. 1. Original button mark 60
Fig. 2. Fake gold button re-sew 60
Fig. 3. Knot straps on the dragon insignia on the right shoulder 60
Fig. 4. Fixation of the dragon insignia on the inside of the right shoulder 60
Fig. 5. Open Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 61
Fig. 6. Written Chinese characters in the two parts : paper attached to the lining and green outer surface 61
Fig. 7. Open Cheongsaek-Sukgosa-Jangot 61
Fig. 8. Woven Chinese characters on the straps and at the bottom line in the Cheongsaek-Sukgosa-Jangot 61
Fig. 9. Phoenix insignia on the Gwanghwadang-Wonsam 62
Fig. 10. Clumsy stitch with a sewed phoenix insignia 62
Fig. 11. Fine gold of Gwanghwadang-Wonsam 62
Fig. 12. Engraved as the 'Gold 99' in Korean on the back of the button 62
Fig. 13. Irreversible wrinkles and slanted dragon insignia 64
Fig. 14. Tight stitch on a weak silk tabby to fix two pieces of Dangui 64
Fig. 15. The composition of gold threads used in Donggungbi-Wonsam 66
Fig. 16. The composition of gold threads used in Jeon-Wangbi-Dangui 66
Fig. 17. Gold thread on the borderline of the dragon insignia in Donggungbi-Wonsam 67
Fig. 18. Gold threads used in embroidery of the dragon insignia in Donggungbi-Wonsam 67
Fig. 19. Gold thread on the borderline of the dragon insignia in Jeon-Wangbi-Dangui 67
Fig. 20. Gold threads used in embroidery of the dragon insignia in Jeon-Wangbi-Dangui 67
Fig. 21. UV/Vis Spectrum of Donggungbi-Wonsam 68
Fig. 22. Comparison of blue UV/Vis Spectrum 68
Fig. 23. Before conservation of the stain on the lining of Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 69
Fig. 24. After conservation of the stain on the lining of Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 69
Fig. 25. Before repair of the coat hemline 69
Fig. 26. After repair of the coat hemline 69
Fig. 27. Cleaning on the paper attached to the Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 69
Fig. 28. Shape correction on the paper attached to the Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 69
Fig. 29. Removal of the insignia from the back of Gwanghwadang-Wonsam 70
Fig. 30. Easing wrinkle after removal of the insignia from the back 70
Fig. 31. Cleaning of the Myeongju-Jeogori 70
Fig. 32. Cleaning of the Myeongju-Jeogori 70
Fig. 33. Before shape correction of the Myeongju-Jeogori 71
Fig. 34. After shape correction of the Myeongju-Jeogori 71
Fig. 35. Removing wrinkles on the surface of the Myeongju-Jeogori 71
Fig. 36. Removing wrinkles on the surface of the Myeongju-Jeogori 71
Fig. 37. Before fabric reinforcement on the Hansam of the Donggungbi-Wonsam 72
Fig. 38. After fabric reinforcement on the Hansam of the Donggungbi-Wonsam 72
Fig. 39. Before repair on the sewing line of the Donggungbi-Wonsam 72
Fig. 40. After repair on the sewing line of the Donggungbi-Wonsam 72
Fig. 41. Conservation treatment on the multicolor-striped sleeve and Hansam of the Donggungbi-Wonsam 73
Fig. 42. Re-fixation gold thread of the dragon insignia 73
Fig. 43. Microscope image before re-fixation gold thread of the dragon insignia 73
Fig. 44. Microscope image after re-fixation gold thread of the dragon insignia 73
Fig. 45. Before fabric reinforcement of the Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 74
Fig. 46. After fabric reinforcement of the Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 74
Fig. 47. Before repair on the sewing line of the Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 74
Fig. 48. After repair on the sewing line of thee Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 74
Fig. 49. Cutting paper for restoration of the Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 74
Fig. 50. Reinforcement and restoration of paper of the Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 74
Fig. 51. Before removal the old tag of Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 74
Fig. 52. After removal the old tag of Oksaek-Myeongju-Jangot 74
Fig. 53. Before fabric reinforcement of the Cheongsaek-Sukgosa-Jangot 75
Fig. 54. After fabric reinforcement of the Cheongsaek-Sukgosa-Jangot 75
Fig. 55. Before conservation treatment of the torn folding line in the Cheongsaek-Sukgosa-Jangot 75
Fig. 56. After conservation treatment of the torn folding line in the Cheongsaek-Sukgosa-Jangot 75
Fig. 57. Before conservation treatment of weak adhesive straps 75
Fig. 58. After conservation treatment of the straps 75
Fig. 59. Phoenix insignia on the Gwanghwadang-Wonsam 76
Fig. 60. Phoenix insignia on the right side of the Gwanghwadang-Wonsam 76
Fig. 61. Before removal of phoenix insignia on the Gwanghwadang-Wonsam 76
Fig. 62. After removal of phoenix insignia on the Gwanghwadang-Wonsam 76
Fig. 63. Before fabric reinforcement of sleeve end from the Tohwangsaek-Myeongju-Jeogori 77
Fig. 64. After fabric reinforcement of sleeve end from the Tohwangsaek-Myeongju-Jeogori 77
Fig. 65. Before fabric reinforcement of collar from the Tohwangsaek-Myeongju-Jeogori 77
Fig. 66. After fabric reinforcement of collar from the Tohwangsaek-Myeongju-Jeogori 77
Fig. 67. Before fabric reinforcement of collar lining from the Jeon-Wangbi-Dangui 78
Fig. 68. After fabric reinforcement of collar lining from the Jeon-Wangbi-Dangui 78
Fig. 69. Cracked and torn collar lining from the Jeon-Wangbi-Dangui 78
Fig. 70. Conservation treatment of fabric reinforcement the collar lining 78
Fig. 71. Before removal the old tag of Jeon-Wangbi-Dangui 78
Fig. 72. After removal the old tag of Jeon-Wangbi-Dangui 78
세종대학교 소장 왕실 예복에 사용된 금사의 과학적 분석 / 이장존 93
Fig. 1. Gold thread analysis and equipment 93
Fig. 2. Optical microscope images on the backside of gold thread 94
Fig. 3. Results of gas chromatograph/mass spectrometer analysis of the Yi Danha's wife-Wonsam 95
Fig. 4. Results of gas chromatograph/mass spectrometer analysis of the Donggungbi-Wonsam 95
Fig. 5. Microscopy of gold thread used in the Yi Danha's wife-Wonsam 96
Fig. 6. Portable XRF analysis location of the Yi Danha's wife-Wonsam 96
Fig. 7. Microscopy of gold thread used in the Donggungbi-Wonsam 99
Fig. 8. Portable XRF analysis location of the Donggungbi-Wonsam 99
Fig. 9. Microscopy of gold thread in the Gwanghwadang-Wonsam 103
Fig. 10. Portable XRF analysis location of the Gwanghwadang-Wonsam 103
Fig. 11. Microscopy of gold thread used in the Jeon-Wangbi-Dangui 105
Fig. 12. Portable XRF analysis location of the Jeon-Wangbi-Dangui 105
원삼(圓衫)에 표현된 금(金)장식 문양의 형성 배경 / 홍나영;강서영 115
Fig. 1. Illustration of Wonsam with Tongsu-Seuran pattern 115
Fig. 2. Illustration of Wonsam with character 'Su-Bok(壽福)' pattern 115
Fig. 3. Fabric pattern of lady Yoon's Joegori, 16C Joseon Dynasty 120
Fig. 4. Ming Wanli's ceremonial attire, 17C Ming Dynasty 123
Fig. 5. Illustration of Wanli's ceremonial attire pattern 123
Fig. 6. Illustration of princess Chung-yun's Dangui pattern 123
Fig. 7. Silk fabric with peach and character 'Su' pattern, 17C Ming Dynasty 124
Fig. 8. Silk fabric with various treasure and character 'Su' pattern, 17C Ming Dynasty 124
Fig. 9. Silk fabrics with character 'Su' pattern, 17C Joseon Dynasty(Found in the Buddhist statues) 126
Fig. 10. Sutra cover with character 'Su' pattern, 16C-early 17C Ming Dynasty 126
Fig. 11. Insignia with character 'Su' of lady Shim, late 17C-early 18C Joseon Dynasty 126
Fig. 12. Illustration of insignia with character 'Su' and pattern, 17C Ming Dynasty 126
Fig. 13. Illustration of lady Kwon's pillow fabric, 18C Joseon Dynasty 126
Fig. 14. Silk fabric with character 'Hui' pattern, 17C Ming Dynasty 126
Fig. 15. Illustration of silk fabric with character 'Su' pattern, late Qing Dynasty 127
Fig. 16. Sutra cover with character 'Su' and cloud pattern, 16-Early 17C Ming Dynasty 127
Fig. 17. Illustration of silk fabric with character 'Su' and cloud pattern, early Qing Dynasty 127
Fig. 18. Illustration of princess Deokon's silk fabric pattern with character 'Su' and cloud, 19C Joseon Dynasty 127
Fig. 19. Wonsam of lady Kwon, 17C Joseon Dynasty 128
Fig. 20. Gold decoration pattern of lady Kwon's Wonsam 128
Fig. 21. Wonsam of Yi Danha's wife, back 130
Fig. 22. Detail of multicolor-striped sleeves of Fig. 21 130
Fig. 23. Detail of right sleeve 131
Fig. 24. Detail of left sleeve 131
Fig. 25. Layout of Yi Danha's wife's Wonsam pattern 131
Fig. 26. Detail of Seuran with supplementary gold wefts 131
Fig. 27. Princess Hwasun's Wonsam, 18C Joseon Dynasty 132
Fig. 28. Detail of princess Hwasun's Wonsam's fabric 132
Fig. 29. Detail of princess Hwasun's Wonsam's Tongsu-Seuran 133
브루클린박물관 소장 원삼, 당의, 활옷의 보존상태 조사 보고 / 안보연;이량미 142
Fig. 1. Front image of woman's ceremonial robe (Wonsam) 142
Fig. 2. Illustration of woman's ceremonial robe (Wonsam) 142
Fig. 3. Stains in armhole and sleeve 143
Fig. 4. Attached textile for reinforcement on the inside and another torn part 143
Fig. 5. Method of sewing of hem and sleeve 144
Fig. 6. Microscope image of Noksaegunbomunsa 144
Fig. 7. Microscope image of Hansam 144
Fig. 8. Microscope image of multicolor-striped sleeves of red Unbomunsa 144
Fig. 9. Microscope of multicolor-striped sleeves of red Hwamunsa 144
Fig. 10. Microscope image of white silk tabby (topperd collar) 144
Fig. 11. Illustration of court woman's jacket (Dangui) 145
Fig. 12. Illustration of similar decoration just like insignia of court woman's jacket (Dangui) 145
Fig. 13. Front image of court woman's jacket (Dangui) 146
Fig. 14. Back image of court woman's jacket (Dangui) 146
Fig. 15. Attached similar decoration with fake-insignia on court woman's jacket 147
Fig. 16. Attached traditional paper on collar to prevent dirt 147
Fig. 17. Trace of fake insignia fixed to the inner side and repair marks of burst fabric 147
Fig. 18. Status of Goreum (coat strings) attached to Dangui and repair marks 147
Fig. 19. Inside of the Geodulji and Sugoo (cuffs) 147
Fig. 20. Noksaekdoryubulsumunsa used for outer fabric of Dangui and Hongsaekdoryubulsumunsa for lining 148
Fig. 21. Microscope image of Noksaekdoryubulsumunsa 148
Fig. 22. Microscope image of Hongsaekdoryubulsumunsa 148
Fig. 23. 5-Jok (set) Hangra (weft-ribbed gauze) used for Goreum 148
Fig. 24. Plain gauze for Geodulji and red-colored silk tabby for lining of Sugoo 148
Fig. 25. Exposed Hanji (traditional Korean paper) in Geodulji 148
Fig. 26. Edges of fake insignia 149
Fig. 27. Microscope image of flannel 149
Fig. 28. Stitches for attaching fake insignia 149
Fig. 29. Green bat pattern applique inside the fake insignia ornament 149
Fig. 30. Geumjeonji (a gold paper ornament) attached to the fake insignia 149
Fig. 31. Front image of bride's robe (Hwalot) 151
Fig. 32. Back image of Hwalot 151
Fig. 33. Collar of Hwalot 152
Fig. 34. Embroidered pattern with Chinese character '富如海' and '壽如山' in front of Hwalot 153
Fig. 35. Fabric reinforcement on red-colored fabric of Git (a lapel) and blue-colored fabric 153
Fig. 36. Repair stitches with violet and light green threads 153
Fig. 37. Applique state of embroidered motifs from another Hwalot 153
Fig. 38. Applique with embroidered black-crowned night heron from another Hwalot 154
Fig. 39. Repaired left Godae 154
Fig. 40. Back of Godae 154
Fig. 41. Reinforced Doryeondan (bottom hem) with blue and red-colored net 154
Fig. 42. Symmetrical nine phoenixes embroidered pattern in front panel 155
Fig. 43. Symmetrical nine phoenixes embroidered pattern in back of sleeve 155
Fig. 44. Symmetrical butterfly embroidered pattern in front panel 156
Fig. 45. Symmetrical butterfly embroidered pattern in back panel 156
Fig. 46. 8-harness 3-counter wrap yarn satin weave on outer fabric and lining of Hwalot 157
Fig. 47. Multicolored stripe-blue, yellow, and red of sleeve 157
Fig. 48. 8-harness satin weave on Hansam and cotton fabric on lining of Sugoo 157
Fig. 49. Gild fabric and gold thread woven silk pieces near armhole of right front panel, gild fabric on right back sleeve 158
Fig. 50. Microscope image of gild fabric and gold thread woven silk pieces near armhole of right front panel 158
Fig. 51. Red-colored reinforcement fabric and kimono fabric attached to Godae left shoulder fold 158
Fig. 52. Kimono fabric overlaid on left back panel 158
Fig. 53. Kimono fabric on left reverse panel attached to right front panel of kimono fabric 159
Fig. 54. Gold threads remaining on decorative edges of nine phoenix patterns 159
Fig. 55. Gold threads on edges of lotus patterns on reverse panel of sleeves 159
Fig. 56. Broken and loosen gold threads 159