Title page
Contents
Abstract 1
Acknowledgements 3
Acronyms 5
Executive summary 7
1. Introduction 9
2. Expansion and organisation of the T&C GVC 11
2.1. Expansion of the T&C GVC 11
2.2. Organisation of the T&C GVC 12
2.3. Country divisions of labour 13
2.4. Relative position of case study countries 16
3. Changing governance structures in textiles and clothing 18
3.1. Changing T&C GVC governance structures 18
3.2. Fragmented or coordinated governance? 20
3.3. Implications for the informal sector 24
4. Assessing the nexus of economic, social and environmental upgrading 26
4.1. Prevailing GVC governance structures 26
4.2. Economic upgrading 28
4.3. Social upgrading 31
4.4. Environmental upgrading 34
4.5. Assessing the nexus 39
5. Conclusions 44
References 45
Appendix 1. The global value chain methodology 48
Table 1. Top T&C exporters in 2022 14
Table 2. Country capabilities in value chain functions 15
Table 3. Summary of T&C GVC engagement of case study countries 16
Table 4. Overview of T&C GVC governance structures 27
Table 5. Summary of economic upgrading 29
Table 6. Indicators of economic upgrading 31
Table 7. Indicators of social upgrading 33
Table 8. Indicators of environmental upgrading 38
Table 9. Scorecard on economic, social and environmental upgrading 40
Table 10. Environmental, climate and biodiversity laws 42
Boxes
Box 1. Global value chain governance 19
Box 2. Multilateral trade policy developments 20
Box 3. Preferential market access and conditionality 21
Box 4. Firm-specific initiatives 23
Box 5. Ensuring compliance with EIAs 43
Table A1. T&C sector scorecard for each country case study 50